Drifting A BMW: Beginners Guide

Beginner's Guide on Drifting BMW Chassis'

Welcome to the BMW Drifting Beginners guide. This article will go over the basics of buying, maintaining, and modifying the three most commonly used BMWs in drifting. First, we're going to go over a simple buyers guide to help you decide which vehicle is right for you! 

E30 3 Series - 1982-1993

E30s are BMWs second generation 3 series. They are now classic vehicles as determined by BMW and are sought after by all types of enthusiasts. These are a great choice for any new drifter as they are extremely simple, reliable, easy to work on, and reasonably cheap to modify. Most notably the E30 uses a non-adjustable (from the factory) semi-trailing arm rear suspension that requires very little maintenance and in stock form does not require rear alignments. There are a few different models within the E30 family. The 318i, 325e/es, 325i/is, of these three models the 325i and 325is are the most desirable for drifting as they have the most powerful engine available to any non-m vehicle 3 series. Equipped with The bulletproof workhorse that is the m20b25, these engines make a respectable 169hp and 167ft/lbs. Although this may not seem like much, they are extremely light and with a relatively inexpensive software upgrade they can be extremely fun and consistent on track.  As with any old vehicle, purchasing one with a good maintenance history is essential as a neglected vehicle can lead to more costly repairs in the long run. Common repair items on E30 consist of the timing belt, water pump, distributor, cap and rotor, plug wires, fuel pump, and valve adjustments. All of these items have become very cheap to replace and working on one is a breeze. Although they seem like a great beginner drift car they are becoming harder and harder to find as fewer people are selling them because they are now classics. That being said if you can find a good deal on one. They're excellent vehicles and would absolutely be worth the investment. 

E36 3 Series - 1992-1998

The replacement for the E30 was one of the most well-renowned drivers cars of the 90s. The E36, specifically the M3 shocked the world with a huge increase in power and performance over the previous generation. This vehicle was one of the best street and track cars of its time beating out many supercars in track tests and lap times. The E36 is probably one of the best bang for buck drift cars available today. With an updated engine and rear suspension, the E36 is still a very relevant car in the drift community. The different E36 models are the 318i/is, 323i, 325i/is, 328i, and M3. Of these chassis models, the only model not recommended for drifting is the 318 as it has an underpowered 4 cylinder engine. Any other model will sport at least a 2.5l inline 6. The m50 or m5x as there are many different variants is one of the most reliable (when properly maintained) engines around. Currently, these vehicles can be found in running/driving condition for as little as $2500 and are an excellent choice for any drifter novice or not. The ideal E36 model to purchase is the 328i coupe or sedan. It has the 2.8l M52 engine and comes from the factory with more than enough power to drift and be competitive on the track. E36s have a lot more repair items than e30. These consist of the entire cooling system, power steering systems, chassis bushings, and most notably are known for having issues with the rear subframe mounting points cracking. These are all fairly easy things to maintain/repair and given how many of these vehicles are still on the road, parts are very cheap and easy to find.

E46 3 Series - 1999-2006

The E46 is essentially an E36+. With nearly identical front and rear suspension and only a few minor changes here and there, the E46 is known for being one of the most well rounded 3 series. A wider chassis and more refined features make it an excellent choice for any drifter. Whether it be a daily driver that sometimes gets taken to the track or a dedicated pro-am or even pro car. The E46 has everything covered.

Engine Comparison Chart

Chassis	Engine	Horsepower	Torque	Transmission
E30 325i/is	M20B25	169	167	Getrag 260
E36 325i 1992	M50B25 Non Vanos	189	181	Getrag 250
E36 325i/is	M50B25 Vanos	189	184	Getrag 250
E36 M3 1995	S500B30	240	225	ZF 5 Speed
E36 323i	M52B25	168	181
E36 328i	M52B28	190	210	ZF 5 Speed
E36 M3	S52B32	240	240	ZF 5 Speed
E46 323i	M52B25TUB	168	181	Getrag 250
E46 325i	M54B25	192	181	Getrag 250
E46 328i	M52B28TUB	190	210	ZF 5 Speed
E46 330i	M54B30	228	221	ZF 5 Speed/ZF 6 Speed
E46 330i ZHP	M54B30	235	222	ZF 5 Speed/ZF 6 Speed
E46 M3	S54B32	338	269	Getrag 420 6 Speed

 

Torsional Rigidity By Chassis

Chassis	Torsional Rigidity (Nm)
E30 Coupe
E30 Sedan
E30 Convertible
E30 M3
E36 Coupe	10900
E36 Sedan
E36 Convertible
E46 Coupe	12500
E46 Sedan w/o Folding Seats	13000
E46 Sedan w/ Folding Seats	18000
E46 Convertible
E46 Wagon	14000
E46 M3	10900

Common Maintenance Items and Known Issues

E30

• Rear Subframe Bushings (Subframe Risers)
• Rear Differential Bushings
• Front Control Arm Bushings
• Engine Mounts
• Transmission Mounts

E36

• Cooling System
• Front Control Arm Bushings
• Rear Subframe Bushings
• Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
• Power Steering System
• Rear Chassis Reinforcement Plates
• Engine Mounts
• Transmission Mounts

E46

• Complete Cooling System
• Power Steering System
• Front Control Arm Bushings
• Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
• Rear Subframe Bushings
• Rear Differential Bushings
• Engine Mounts
• Transmission Mounts

Basic Alignment Settings

E30

Front toe: 1/8" toe-out

Front Camber: -3 to -6 degrees. On standard coilovers maximum negative camber setting allowable.

Rear Camber: Non-adjustable. Recommended to install subframe risers. If adjustable as low camber as possible.

Rear Toe: Non-Adjustable. If adjustable 1/8" to 1/4" toe-in.

E36

Front toe: 1/8" toe-out

Front Camber: -3 to -6 degrees. On standard coilovers maximum negative camber setting allowable.

Rear Camber: For factory arms set camber as low as possible while retaining factory rear toe setting.

Rear toe: For stock brackets run factory toe-in setting with as little camber as possible.

E46

 Front toe: 1/8" toe-out

Front Camber: -3 to -6 degrees. On standard coilovers maximum negative camber setting allowable.

Rear Camber: For factory arms set camber as low as possible while retaining factory rear toe setting.

Rear toe: For stock brackets run factory toe-in setting with as little camber as possible.

E36 and E46 Chassis Reinforcement

One of the most recommended maintenance items for an E36 or E46 is reinforcing the rear subframe mounts on the chassis. It is common, especially in high-stress motorsports for the sheet metal that makes up the subframe mounts to begin to crack and tear. In some extreme cases, the entire subframe can tear away from the body. As a result, this is something that MUST be done to prolong the life of your chassis. Especially if your vehicle is from the north or has noticeable rust spots.

Cooling System

Contrary to what you have probably heard about BMWs being unreliable. They are in fact the opposite. 95% of the time when a BMW fails it is a result of neglect and poor maintenance. One of the most common failure points on any BMW is the cooling system. It is common practice when preparing a BMW for track time to replace all of the cooling system components. You may wonder what these items are. A list below will go over some of the most common items. Replacing your cooling system once every other season is an excellent way to ensure the longevity of your car.

Cooling System Components

• Radiator
• Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses
• Coolant Temperature Sensor
• Thermostat
• Water Pump
• Plastic Heater Hose (E46)
• Coolant Expansion Tank
• Fan Clutch
• Oil Filter Housing Gasket

Engine Maintenance

Most BMWs will have a few oil leaks when you get them depending on how well they were taken care of. It's a great idea to go ahead and fix all your oil leaks straight away. While oil leaks aren't the worst thing in the world if they are bad enough you won't pass tech and if left unchecked your oil level could drop below safe and cause serious engine damage. Below you'll find a list of common places to check your engine for oil leaks.

Common Oil Leak Locations

• Valve Cover Gasket (always replace any associated rubber grommets and spark plug well gaskets.)
• Oil Filter Housing Gasket
• Oil Pan Gasket
• Rear Main Output Shaft Seal
• Power Steering Oil Feed Line
• Power Steering High-Pressure Line
• Transmission Output Shaft Seal